If you leave this disconnected the car thinks your seat belts are fastened good. The seat is easier to get out the door if you fold it forward first. Better look at side brackets The easiest way to mount the new seat is to unbolt the stock seat from the stock seat rail, mount the rails back in the car, and mount the new seat to that.
If you choose not to use the stock seat rails and use a custom floor mount you will also have to devise a way to use the right side seat belt anchor because it is attached to the stock seat rails see picture below. Floor with seat removed My Sparco Evo seat with it's side mounts installed was too wide to mount to the stock seat rails so I had to fabricate four, three inch square pieces of high strength aluminum to use as an adapter.
I bolted the four adapters to the stock seat rails and then bolted the new seat to the adapters. Note : The large Sparco Evo II seat is too wide for the 3rd gen and will not fit it's not even close. Remember, if the seat mounts fail during a racing impact, the results could be catastrophic.
The different disciplines of auto racing all have their own unique ways of mounting the racing seat. Due to the volume and severity of crashes in Oval track racing, their methods are typically the strongest, but may be difficult to apply to Road Race or Drag Race applications.
The first step for mounting a racing seat is, obviously, it's location. With the seat and driver in the car, determine the height from the floorboard, distance back from steering wheel and pedals, incline around 10 degree to 20 degree and the centering location. Some racers will even skew their seat from level or square depending on the type of racing dirt or asphalt.
Circle Track racers have traditionally mounted the seat to the roll cage structure in some fashion. Street stock type race cars will have a "hoop" that runs along the floor boards and attaches to the door bar structure and the main cage. The theory is if there is an extreme driver's door impact, the seat will move with the door bar structure, possibly preventing the cage from collapsing into the driver.
Pre-fabricated seat "hoops" are available for purchase or they can be quickly fabricated with the proper shop tools. The floor board "hoop" will provide a bolting surface for the bottom of the race seat. The next attachment should be the seat back, at approximately shoulder blade height.
This attachment is connected to the horizontal bar that supports the main roll cage hoop. Many racers are now using a third attachment point on the lower back section of the seat for even more precaution. Factory or shop built "jig" racing chassis should have all the seat mounts built into the structure. Although, it is not uncommon to have to slightly modify to suit a certain seat installation.
Typically, this involves extending or shortening the mount lengths. Make sure the fabrication and welding skills of the person performing the modifications are top notch, as the drivers safety is at stake. If your chassis builder is local, they will be very familiar with the proper techniques and positioning of your racing seat.
Never, bolt any circle track race seat directly to the floorboards.
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